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[Peter Wiltshire]

Christmas vacation gave me a free day off so I tackled a 10 move Japanese style puzzle box.  I have always wanted to try building a sliding puzzle box, and I was lucky to find plans here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bruce.viney/The Matchbox T-plans.pdf

I modified the design to allow the finished box to be a cube, and chose Lacewood for the small grain pattern.  The finished box measures 2 3/4 of an inch square and was finished with brushing lacquer and wax.  From start to finish the project took me approximately 12 hours to complete, and most of the cutting was done on a very inaccurate miter saw.  This project taught me that it's time to invest in a much needed table saw 

Bruce Viney has many good puzzle box plans on his website here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bruce.viney/index.html  and if anyone wishes the modified measurements to build this project as a cube let me know and I will send out the plans.

UPDATE Bruce liked my cubed version of his puzzle box, and has posted my plans along with the original on his website.  You can find them through the above links.  Hope this helps!

[Stephen Chin]

Nice job Peter, its a WOW!, and in 12 hrs, with lacewood. I usually build my protos in pine, good firewood if I boo boo. Send me plans. Finally got a chance to play on the lathe, 1 full day to make a pot puzzle.Made of Camphor, at least it smells nice.Was making a sovereign ball , but ended up as the pot, a nice variation. Will send a pic when I get a chance to do photos

[Robert Yarger]

Peter, Wonderful box. I feel intimidated.  The quality looks exceptional, and it is nice to see that a project has kept you out of trouble.

[Scott Peterson]

Sweet looking box, Peter!  How big is yours?  The one on Bruce's website is really small.  I like your cube version better.

What is even more amazing is that you made the puzzle in just 12 hours form star to finish!

Happy New Year!

[Eric Fuller]

Phenominal work for being hobbled without a tablesaw.  I don't know if I could have pulled that off on a miter saw alone.  You have the touch my friend...nurture it.

P.S. Fixed your link for you 

[Thargo]

Nice job Peter - and all in one day!!!!!

I'm envious as I just make sawdust. 

...Dave

[Robert Yarger]

Peter, you have now set a president.  I expect to see a newly completed project from you at the start of every new year.  8

[Peter Wiltshire]

Thanks all for the kind words.  It's great every time I try something new because the building process teaches me so much.  It's time I purchase a table saw, and I would love to hear from the group what I should be looking for.

I currently have around $400 dollars (Canadian) saved for the purchase.  My only requirements are that it has to be portable because of space limitations.  I have been looking at a 10" Ridgid saw that has a micro bevel adjustment, riving knife, 24" rip capacitly, cast extension table, and pull out handle for portability.  Home Depot sells it in Canada for $349 (see enclosed photo)  It looks pretty cool, but I would love to hear from the group on what they think I should be looking for?

[Stephen Chin]

Hi Peter,
I have a de Walt, somewhere in the garage. Its quiet and I use it to cut/ rip  stock wit a 24 tooth blade. Then I use the compound drop saw to cut the pieces, simple jig with lots of finger clamps, Works for me
Check the Saw Stop Contractors Saw too, cost heaps, but how much do you value your fingers. Ask Mark, he has one
Everytime I'm done on the saw, I count fingers, 1.2.3....12,,,,Phew!
Seriously, the Scream of Death really scares me, too many close shaves in the past
Also check the noise level, get them to turn it on
I think most saws are OK, its the jig you place on it that gives you the repeatedly 'Lego' pieces, plus the qualty of the saw blade
Saw a Bosch table saw in Prague that has a sliding plate when you feed the wood in , thats Cool! Not available in Australia thou.
Hope these hints help

[Scott Peterson]

Peter - I have a Rigid tablesaw and I like mine - so I think they can build a decent saw.  There are others that are better, but my Rigid does the job needed for accurate puzzles.  However, I have the stand-up contractor model TS3660 with (I assume) a much heavier table and a belt driven arbor.  The TS3650 should be around $550 USD, and there is another similar model ZRTS3650 for about $450 USD - I'm not sure what the differences are between the models.

The portable saws are nice for space limitations, but the belt driven arbor will probably avoid some motor vibration going straight to the blade as may be the case with a shaft driven arbor/blade.  The heavy table will also dampen some vibrations. 

There are other brands out there with good saws and competitive pricing with Rigid.  Jet, Delta, Grizzly, Powermatic (usually more $$), and others... 

The table saw will be your main machine - you might be able to find something in your $400 CAN range, but don't go too cheap on this purchase.  Don't go cheap on a blade either, but this is another topic...

Hope that helps...

[Eric Fuller]

I strongly recommend against a benchtop direct drive table saw.  They are fine for ripping 2x4's and doing crosscuts for laying hardwood floors.  They aren't designed for fine, accurate work at all.  If your space limitations are that tight, I recommend a full size contractor's saw without the wings, mounted on a mobile base.  It will have a very small footprint and you can move it around easily.  Your budget won't get you one new, but I bet you can find something on craigslist for around that much.

For instance, you would be MUCH better off with either of these than the Rigid.  The last one is a very nice saw indeed, and a great deal for the money.  All will have much higher resale value down the road, and with them you can not only make nice puzzles, but also the odd piece of furniture to keep your significant other happy with your newfound hobby
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/tls/952257983.html
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/yrk/tls/957359623.html
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/drh/tls/966034902.html

[Mark McCallum]

Peter,

First off, I love the box and would like to see your modified plans for it.  You did a great job!! I love the edge detail.  I've looked at many of the plans on the website you linked to and they are very interesting.  I wish someone would publish a nice book just on puzzle boxes and their construction.

Secondly, I echo Eric's thoughts on the table saw.  I think you would be much better off with a contractor's model with a mobile base without the wings if too bulky.  Most of the time the wings are not needed for what we are doing. However, you may find that you need to mount one wing just to keep the fence rails in their proper places.  Whatever saw you decide upon, it is obvious you have the talent, so keep at it.  Congratulations on the nifty box and I hope to see more of your work soon.

[Peter Wiltshire]

Hello Mark,  I have updated my post above, Bruce liked the modified version and has placed the plans on his website.  Here's the link http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bruce.viney/gallery%20page%203.html The box is called "Matchbox"  I would recommend downloading his plans for the directions and my plans for the measurements (if you wish to build the box as a cube)

Thanks all for the advice on table saws.  I did not realize that the table top and portable models were direct drive.  A belt drive makes way more sense to reduce vibration and inaccuracies.  I will make room, even if it means my wife's car has to stay outside    I will start the hunt for a full size contractor's saw.

[Kerry Verne]

Love the box.. I'm quite impressed that it only took you a day.

As for a saw, I fought with alignment issues on my old saw and spent more time adjusting it than I did producing puzzles. I agree with Eric, get a floor standing model and save yourself some hair loss. I'd hunt for a used cabinet saw, but definitely at least a contractor saw, with a mobile base.

[Canuck]

Amazing work there Peter
Kerry, do you have Aussie roots?