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[John Lofy]

Oh, that's right,  I was on the IPP website and miscounted years, thought SF was in 2010.  Will have to get my little tush in gear.

I've seen some of Stephen's work and it does look beautiful, but I've got a clever idea for a puzzle box that I think is pretty slick.

BTW -- I read somewhere or heard that the traditional wood for puzzle boxes (e.g. everything on the inside) is katsura.  I understand that it is used for it's ease of working with, stability with changes in temp/humidity, straightness of grain . . . .

When I google it, all I get are links for "go" sites (where the wood is commonly used). 

Anyone know if it is available anywhere in the US ?  Or a website where it can be ordered ?

If katsura does not pan out, any other recommendations for other wood for puzzle box interiors (and exteriors, for that matter) ?

John

[Stephen Chin]

Ah shucks! John, I'd prefer to beat Robert's record of 3 zips first. At least let me  reach 7 zips before the Judges recognise my stuff

My aim is to win a prize in IPP one day too,,,,,long slow death waiting mate

[Stephen Chin]

Hi JL, welcome aboard

Re Box interiors, I have a fancy for Camphor Laurel, origins from China, its classified as a noxious weed in some states here, almost impossible to kill.

Softwood ,easy to work, smells incredible.I line most boxes with it and I like them to be aromatic inside, other woods are Sandal wood, Houn pine ( nice distinct damp smell), Rosewood, even Coachwood (caramel smell), Zebrano (yucky dead smell)

If you have a unsightly interior, flocks it. Favorite woods are huon and camphor. Hope this helps

[Eric Fuller]

Probably the most stable wood I have ever used in a puzzle box is Honduras Mahogany.  As far as finding a material what won't warp or shrink, a lot of that is stock selection and how you mill it.  Obviously quartersawn is going to be more stable, and different woods have different shrinkage rates depending on moisture.  Keeping the overall size small will also help control shrinkage as the total amount the wood can move is limited by the smaller component pieces.  Generally, building movement into the box is encouraged...I do that by using traditional boxmaking joinery and conforming to traditional standards which have been used for hundreds of years to minimize the effect of movement.

[Robert Yarger]

My all time favorite for workability, strength, purity in simple beauty, flexibility, retardance to warping, firmness of gluing, ect... is holly.  Really expensive.  Hard to keep white in the lacquering process, but my favorite so far.

[Kerry Verne]

Corian won't move, but I hate cutting it. Static electricity makes it stick to everything. It does work nice for gluing jigs and such as CA glue bonds to it quick and permanent.

[Canuck]

My choice would be Walnut, very nice all around wood with good machining properties!  I've made many boxes and trays with it, I love working it, can't go wrong for the price either!!

[Robert Yarger]

Is there a best wood for puzzleboxes?  I think I have used everything under the sun.  Some I like better than others, but none are without thier charm.  I would say to just find a wood that available in your price range that you enjoy working with and have at it. 

[Canuck]

Is there a best wood for puzzleboxes?  I think I have used everything under the sun. 

Yeah well, here's the thing, you've proven over and over that 'Holly' is such an awesome wood for various reasons, however I absolutely hate the stuff!  I literally pleaded with my wood supplier to bring some in for me, from of all places North Carolina   I still have a rather large board of it that I swear 'mocks' me everytime I walk into the workshop, the stupid piece is warped, twisted, and so full of knots that it would make construction grade 'spruce' look like 'macassar ebony'   Someday I'll use the piece of crap in a project but I'm not holding my breath

[Kerry Verne]

Every piece of holly I've seen at Klingspor would lose about 1/3 just getting it square.
My work on the Corner Block has brought me to enjoy working with Yellowheart, though Bloodwood is also nice.

[Robert Yarger]

OK, I must admit that John and Kerry are correct.  Holly is one of the worst woods initially when it comes to shrinking and warping.  Boards usually come 1" thick just because you are going to loose about 1/4" in an attempt just to plain it flat.

However, after this, holly is one of the least warping woods.  It is like it has finally gotten everything out if it system.  Once all the knots are cut out (which are like tiny rocks embedded in the wood), the pure white flesh of the tree cuts like butter but is as strong as ivory.  You can plain it down to 1/16" and still have it hold its shape and be strong.

John, "To Kill a Mocking Board" why don't you cut it up into pen blanks.  The contrast of pure white with amber/black knots would make wonderful pens.  Ha, I really crack myself up, to kill a mocking board - now that's funny. 

 

[Canuck]

There you go again making me think I need to work with Holly again

[Robert Yarger]

Umph Umm!!! You also need to work with ebony, or do you not recall a little domino project we had tucked in the wings. 

[Kerry Verne]

I know Holly.. She's a little screwy but nice to work with. Expensive date though..

[Robert Yarger]

She is also a bit warped, but flexible and firm in all the right places with a heart as pure white as the snow.