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[Canuck]

I might try a wheel on my drill press though.

Hey Kerry, I actually initially set up my mandrel buffer on a 'useless drill press' I had and it did work well up until I finally picked up a new lathe to have a dedicated buffing 'station' so definitely can tell you it will work and you can dial in the speeds as well

[Canuck]

This hasn't been brought up yet but I STRONGLY recomend using a full face shield when using any buffing system SEE PREVIOUS POSTS!  Also both the tripoli and the white diamond are not approved for your lungs so a dust mask should be your minimum defense against inhalation

[Carl Morris]

... you mentioned you mounted them in place of your disk in the sander, does that give you full access to the face of the buffs? 

The other thing you mentioned was the White Diamond getting in the grain of the walnut, but strangely enough I wouldn't consider walnut an 'open grain' type of wood.

Now my set-up has the ability to vary the speed, not sure you can decrease the speed of your 'disk sander' but it might be turning a little fast for this application, I think I generally run mine at 1200rpm but I'll have to double check that.   

Sorry, I don't have a picture of the setup.  My sander is a 1x42" belt type, with a sanding disk and table on the side.  If I remove the table and disk, I can mount the adapter for the buffing system onto the end of the motor shaft, then I can use one wheel at a time.  I have full access to the face of the wheel.

I'll have to try less white diamond next time, I may have been too liberal.  What grit do you sand to before buffing?

The motor is 1725 rpm and 1/3 hp, the speed is exactly what the directions call for, but the power is a little low (they call for 1/2 hp).  Reading back through the instructions (what a concept) I see a note that you need to hold the piece below the center of the wheel to keep it from grabbing.  I thought I was doing this, but maybe I got too high up and it was letting me know.

    -- Carl

[Carl Morris]

I see a note that you need to hold the piece below the center of the wheel to keep it from grabbing.  I thought I was doing this, but maybe I got too high up and it was letting me know.

Thinking about this some more... since we're talking about a wheel, does it really make any difference whether you are high or low?  Seems like the critical thing is the angle between the face and the wheel, leaving a gap as John showed in his picture.

    -- Carl

[Carl Morris]

One more question: how much pressure do you use?  Maybe I am pressing too hard and that makes grabbing worse?

    -- Carl

[Canuck]

Yeah after literally buffing well over a thousand pieces you do tend to get a feel for the light pressure needed, essentially you're 'sanding' with mild abrasives instead of a disk or belt as you would with a sander.  I remember reading somewhere that 'tripoli' was comparable to 1200 grit, don't quote me on that, but I tend to agree
You mentioned sanding, and I gotta tell you that's a loaded question, almost all pieces of my puzzles receive a very 'used' 120grit belt sanding before lacquer but my boxes get a more extensive sanding regime, mostly because of my 'slipfeather' technique which requires starting sanding with as low as 60 grit moving all the way up to 600 so...60-80-100-120-150-180-220-320-600
As a side note, some of the woods that I've found take really well to this extensive sanding 'ritual' are Bloodwood and Jacaranda Pardo, they almost have a glass like finish even before lacquer and buffing!  Now in addition when I make pens, I generally start sanding at 320 and work up from there using MicroMesh sanding all the way to 12,000 grit followed by a boiled linseed oil and CA glue finish, then usually skipping the tripoli and straight to the white diamond finishing up with 'Renaissance wax' and final buffing
I will try and do a video capture on my camera showing a puzzle piece being buffed, to hopefully show things more clearly, I'll post it here when I get it done.
Here's the link to my you tube video showing the buffing process, hopefully this will help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGMQR8kNV_w

[Carl Morris]

Yeah after literally buffing well over a thousand pieces you do tend to get a feel for the light pressure needed, essentially you're 'sanding' with mild abrasives instead of a disk or belt as you would with a sander.  ...  Here's the link to my you tube video ...

John,

That's great, thanks!  I think I've been putting too much pressure.  I barely see the wheels deflect when you're using them, where I was leaning into them, which I'm pretty sure invites disaster!   

    -- Carl

[Eric Fuller]

Well, lots to be learned here and thanks a million for all the info John.

Now I need to find another use for a 3/4 hp motor and buy a lower RPM one