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[Kerry Verne]

Alketruse (14) in Walnut, maple and Jatoba. Didn't turn out too bad, at least 16 viable candidates. I guess the number disqualifies me for the contest though. One is finished with Danish oil (Father's day et all), not sure the finish for the rest.

[Canuck]

Very nice Kerry!  I really like the three woods used together, how did the 'Danish oil' work out?  I've always liked using oil, as it tends to bring out the grain.  I'd stick with it if it works out well for you   Is that one inch stock?

[Robert Yarger]

Also, is danish oil better than tung oil?  I never used it before.  Also, nice puzzle, very well crafted.

[Johan Heyns]

Nice work Kerry.

Attached my first puzzle made about 25 years ago.  Pentomino cut from 6mm aluminium using a junior hacksaw.  Wish I developed the boxes after that more.  Didn't even know that something like puzzle boxes existed.

[Johan Heyns]

Tagging on to the finish on a puzzle.  What are your experiences with oil, varnish etc.  I normally use a base laayer of sanding sealer and then lately a clear matt varnish that I spray on. 

Another thing that I've found that work well when a puzzle becomes sticky or not sliding smoothly and you cannot really do something about it anymore: a thin layer of sanding sealer act as a wonderfull lubricant.

[Eric Fuller]

Hey, looks good man!  Come on over sometime this week and we can finish 'em with my fantabulous $90 Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer.  I'll show ya how to use it and I bet you pick one up.  Easiest way to go and a nice finish as long as you get the right mixture of lacquer and retardant for the weather.

Nice jointer BTW 

[Canuck]

  Come on over sometime this week and we can finish 'em with my fantabulous $90 Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer.  I'll show ya how to use it

Hey Kerry, I wouldn't pass up that offer   Also if you do why don't you bring your camera with you and take some snapshots as well, I'd like to see the technique. Eric's finish on puzzles is second to none!

[Canuck]

  Pentomino cut from 6mm aluminium using a junior hacksaw. 

That's a very nice puzzle Johan!  I always thought it would be cool to mill an aluminum set of pentomino's, I guess you beat me to it by some 20 years

[Kerry Verne]

Danish worked well, and dries fairly quickly (where Tung seems to never dry) but was pretty time intensive. You apply, then wipe off the excess or it gets sticky.

My past projects usually worked out nicely with Danish before polishing and waxing, but with this number of sticks and notches the time is prohibitive. The walnut and Jatoba look nice and dark, without any noticeable grain raised, but not very shiny at all. I was thinking about dunking pieces in a can of thinned Danish and running them through a salad spinner, but will likely just bring them to Eric's shop for this batch. Plenty of time to experiment on scrap.

[Canuck]

Yeah, once you try Eric's method, you won't look back guaranteed!  Lacquer really is the 'only' choice for puzzles and especially for burr puzzles that need the 'sliding' quality between pieces.  Hey if you get a chance give Eric's 'buffing system' a try, I use mine on everything, it really puts that 'shine' on pieces, well worth the effort

[Robert Yarger]

I really must agree.  The LPHV sprayer system that Eric turned me onto has become a puzzle staple for me.  You will never look back.  It is the best finish you can put on a puzzle without a lot of hassle.  The all out best finish I have seen is John's buff system, but it requires a more effort and you can't really get into the inside of elbows.

Follow up the lacquer sprayer with wax rubbed steel wool, (I think a Krasnow tip), and you have a very smooth and warm antique style finish without a lot of hassle.

[Kerry Verne]

Eric's recent burr turned out quite nice. The only thing I didn't like about lacquering is that it doesn't bring out the richness in some woods. Waxing would be nice, but buffing a couple hundred pieces would drive me nuts.

[Robert Yarger]

Kerry,  to bring out the wood richness, use the tung or danish oil first, then lacquer.  Oil gives the appearance, but lacquer gives the texture and shine.  I now use both on most projects that have wood variations.  I personally use a matte finish since that reduces the appearance of any pits, dimples or imperfections in the wood.

[Kerry Verne]

Given the general concensus, I snagged a HF HVLP and convinced Eric to help me set it up correctly. Oddly enough, Rockler sells the same unit, and has a better manual to boot. They also sell replacement cups with a lid for $10.   I'm still tempted to do a dip coat in Danish to pop the grain.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=10469&TabSelect=Details

[Canuck]

Hey Kerry, check out my 'old school' method, halfway through lacquering 450 pieces, and they still have to be buffed