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[Eric Fuller]

OK, came across an interesting situation in the shop today repairing a puzzle box for someone.  Had to find a way to glue four slider blocks to the slider keys without taking the box apart.  The blocks have to be glued to the bottom of the keys, but the problem is that there is no way to access the area.  You have to place the blocks in the framework of the box then slide the keys into place over them.  If you put glue on the top of the blocks and then slide the sliders in, the glue will get smeared off as the key panel is pushed in.  Even if there was some glue remaining, you have no way to clamp the blocks.  Also, the glue that sticks to the bottom of the slider as you put it in will gum up the works and possibly lock the box up.  So you have to find a way to secure a joint that is completely inaccessable.  What to do?  I found what I think is a clever solution, but let's hear how you guys would handle it first 

[Phil Tomlinson]

A recent letter to FWW mentioned using an iron to "activate" Titebond glue.  Glue is applied, allowed to dry, then assembled.  When heat is applied (iron on medium setting" it reactivates the glue.  Can't vouch for this technique but some of the FWW staff agreed it works.

[Eric Fuller]

Nobody wants to take a stab at it?  Wimps

[Canuck]

Can you post a pic

[Phil Tomlinson]

so what am I?  Chopped liver?
 

[Kerry Verne]

Does it require a laser? Perhaps a microwave for those of us without money?

[Eric Fuller]

No laser.

OK, here's how I did it.  Drilled holes all the way through the slider bars and about 1/2 way into the slider keys.  Put steel dowel pins into the holes in the blocks with slow set CA glue.  Dumped more CA glue into the half depth holes in the slider keys.  Slid the key on and used a magnet to pull the steel pin into the glue filled cavity of the slider key.  Leave the magnet on long enough for the glue to cure.

[Canuck]

Good thinking on that Eric
As a side note: that CA (cyanoacrylate adhesive) is pretty amazing stuff, it's sold in three consistencies and you can also buy an accelarator, which activates it and cures it instantly.  If you need a glue to bond metal to wood, this is the stuff to use, much quicker than epoxy.  The thin consistency CA is also excellent for repairing hairline cracks as it will wick directly into the wood and will give you a near invissible mend!   The stuff I buy is made by a company called 'Satellite City' out of California, there are others but avoid the 'super glue' that box stores sell, not the same quality.

[Robert Yarger]

Sorry, didn't get to check the forum until today, but here is what I would do.

Drill holes all the way through the slider bars and about 1/2 way into the slider keys.  Put steel dowel pins into the holes in the blocks with slow set CA glue.  Dump more CA glue into the half depth holes in the slider keys.  Slid the key on and used a magnet to pull the steel pin into the glue filled cavity of the slider key.  Leave the magnet on long enough for the glue to cure.

At least that is the way I would do it.

[Canuck]

You know, it's funny cause when I read your description Robert, it seemed to me like that made a LOT MORE SENSE than Eric's way of doing it Oh well, whatever works for HIM I guess

[Eric Fuller]

Sorry, didn't get to check the forum until today, but here is what I would do.

Drill holes all the way through the slider bars and about 1/2 way into the slider keys.  Put steel dowel pins into the holes in the blocks with slow set CA glue.  Dump more CA glue into the half depth holes in the slider keys.  Slid the key on and used a magnet to pull the steel pin into the glue filled cavity of the slider key.  Leave the magnet on long enough for the glue to cure.

At least that is the way I would do it.