Nice work Eric. I especially liked the curly maple and Bubinga pieces.

There are also several designs on Instructables.com, and the CNC Zone forums have several other design threads. (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=46 )

The pic is of the spine of the book, but the image should be reversed if it was a flat mirror.
http://www.math.drexel.edu/~ahicks/

http://www.newscientist.com/gallery/dn16585-amazing-mirrors

It's almost a Rube Goldberg machine, except that it accomplishes nothing during it's movement. It is a nice illustration of making wooden mechanicals though.

If you have the time (and tools), make yourself a set of PALS.
(http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html )  Two pieces of angle iron, a couple socket-headed cap screws and a few washers did the trick for me.

Otherwise it's a game of 'Bump, tighten, curse, loosen, bump the other way, tighten, curse,...' (repeat as necessary).

My wife no longer works and could do glue ups, but my 2yr old would 'help' too much. To him, any wooden stick under a foot long is a 'puzzle'.

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/business/398225_leadtesting31.html

Today is the last day to vote for CPSIA review on the Change.org website: http://www.change.org/ideas/view/save_handmade_toys_from_the_cpsia

Unfortunately, it's refusing to load for me tonight.

Each puzzle listed should show the complete puzzle and also display a set of pieces. There aren't any plans or dimensions, as everything is listed in reference to your stock thickness.

Hopefully it will be back up tomorrow.
*edit*

I'm fairly new to the puzzle world, but I started with Altekruse and a couple of Coffin's work.

For an example off Ishino's site:

Coffin's Wookey Hole puzzle (http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rh5k-isn/Puzzle/555/WookeyHole/)
Final solution looks like this:

This piece has 9 blocks and 4 copies are needed for the puzzle. (9 units x 4 copies) There are two other required piece types with 4 copies each. There are 17 ways it looks like it goes together, but only one works, and it requires twisting a piece (non-linear movement). (For a starting puzzle, this one can be made of just cubes glued together. Lots of cubes, but just cubes to cut.)

For assembly, (if you don't want to take the time and enjoy assembling the puzzle yourself) there's BurrTools, a great app developed to assemble/disassemble puzzles like these.
http://burrtools.sourceforge.net/

He probably uses plywood because it doesn't move. If you resaw hardwoods down to 1/8, (if your planer will cooperate) most flat sawn wood is going to warp.

You seem to like Viney's boxes, but there's tons of other designs out there that can be made with pure hardwoods. Check out Ishino's website: http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rh5k-isn/Puzzle/index.xml

Chisel. It's a hidden hole with straight sides.

What size is your saw? Bimetallic blades look to run between $8 to $40 for generics.

One other thing to think about is rigging a jig for a Sawzall. Those blades are cheap, available, and everyone needs a Sawzall. I used to knock Ryobi until my inlaws gave me one for xmas.

Is your saw motor inside the cabinet? I'd avoid getting metal shavings in that.

Depending on the size, a v-groove and a hold-down clamp or two on a sled will probably work well enough, until the conflagration. Send pics/vids.

B grade gage blocks are reasonably priced on Ebay, $40-60 for an 81 piece set. Decent protractors are also $30-40. I've not needed a set of parallels yet. Use-enco.com also carries decent tools such as set squares and such.

Eric taught me his method for dadoing multiple pieces and I'll try to do it justice. I've only used it to do stick-style puzzles, but it can likely be adapted.

 The basic idea is to make another small (disposable) sled that you run along the fence. It looks more like a tray than a sled. A piece of mdf on the bottom, with more pieces on the top perimeter to contain the pieces you're cutting.
Put the pieces in the middle, press down with a jointer-style push block and run it down the fence over the dado blade.

I do mine by gluing two same-sized pieces to each other with CA glue just around the outside and four passes on the saw at one thickness depth pops the center out making a nice little tray. I have to glue more pieces on to make it stonger, but it's quick and easy.  MDF does change with humidity, so don't rely on it staying true for more than a project or so.

I'll try to post a pic tonight.

*edit* - Already disposed of it.